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Spice Roots

October 1, 2009

spices

By QUENTIN PEREIRA

chefEurasian food is ‘traditional’ fusion cuisine that goes back to the days of European colonies in India, Malacca and other parts of Asia. In Singapore, many Eurasians can trace their roots back to the sixteenth century when Portugal established a colony in Malacca. Eurasian cuisine is a glorious mix of Asian and European flavours and can range from fiery hot chilli-mustard vinegar-based curries to mild cinnamon-garlic-onion flavoured stews.

A lot of the food has Indian roots (influenced by Portuguese Goa), and in Singapore, takes on a lot of Malay and Chinese touches. The cuisine’s European touches include the addition of bacon bones or ham hocks, such as in Devil’s Curry. This dish, while spicy, actually refers to the Christmas leftovers it was originally made (the Kristang word for ‘leftovers’ was debal). Essentially a home-based cuisine, recipes for each dish usually differ as they are inherited from previous generations and evoke fierce loyalties among families, many of whom take great pride in preparing their distinctive dishes for extended family gatherings and festive occasions.

Quentin Pereira learnt the art of Eurasian cooking from his father and grandmother, replicating many family recipes at his restaurant, Quentin’s Eurasian Restaurant (www.quentins.com.sg).

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