Salted-egg macarons, teh tarik ice-cream – Singaporean tastes may be growing ever more cosmopolitan, but some local entrepreneurs are claiming our tastebuds by giving classic desserts a local spin.
BY YQ LIN

IT could have been just another pretty pastry from Europe, joining the sugary ranks of the countless macarons tempting Singaporeans in restaurants here. But when chef Then Chui Foong got down to creating the menu for Jewels Artisan Chocolate – her first venture into the café business – she wasn’t content with simply offering the classic French almond pastry in its traditional form.
“I wanted something made with the best of European techniques, but also original and appealing to Singapore palates,” said Chui Foong, who trained in France under renowned pastry chef Pierre Herme and has over 20 years of F&B experience under her belt. Hence the Black Palm Island Salt macaron was born, featuring a very Asian salted egg in its centre. “One thing Singaporeans don’t like is dessert that is too sweet and too rich, so the salt is a good counter-balance to the sweetness of the almond paste, plus the salted egg is something Asians are familiar with,” said Chui Foong.
She is part of a group of local restaurateurs who are mixing things up and giving all things sweet a distinctly Singaporean spin. And in doing so, they’re creating local classics that retain longevity unlike the bubble tea, doughnut and coffee bun fads that have come and gone. As Germaine Lim, 8 Days food reviewer pointed out, Singaporeans may be well-travelled but “you can’t take the Singapore out of them” – or their yen for local flavours.
FINDING FLAVOUR
One does not have to look far beyond Asia to find an abundance of tastes, textures and temptations. As Janice Wong, founder of 2am Dessert Bar points out: “Many of the ingredients we use are sourced locally and have excellent flavour. Singapore has some very good mangosteens, lychees, jackfruits and guavas. Fine dining establishments should not rule out such produce just because they are readily available.”
She creates noveau dessert that play around with Asian fruits and tastes, such as yuzu (a Japanese citrus), hawthorn berry and guava.
Similarly, Chui Foong delivers familiar flavours in new ways, filling maracons with kaya and almond cream and infusing chocolates with flavours such as jasmine tea, lychee, and frangrant pandan (screwpine leaves). Employing local touches and emphasising premium ingredients help make these new food concepts more accessible, gaining new customers and opening the market, she said.
“I think Singaporeans will always want something local and authentic, it’s just natural.”

NOT JUST PLAIN OL’ VANILLA ICE-CREAM
One of the first to infuse local flavours into western style desserts is ice cream café, the Island Creamery. The ice-cream café won instant fans with flavours such as teh tarik (‘pulled’ milk tea) and pulot hitam (black rice pudding).
Island Creamery opened its doors in 2003 when owner Stanley Kwok (left) – a former engineer – realised he couldn’t find quality ice-cream in local flavours: “Right from the start, the aim was always to focus on local flavours… that’s the niche we created for ourselves.” So successful was the idea that the business, which started with $50,000, broke even “right from the start.”
Island Creamery now has two outlets at Serene Centre and King Albert Park, and a take-away counter at Great World City. “I think Singaporeans always want something local and authentic, it’s just natural,” said Stanley.Catering to nostalgia and tradition has also meant his café not only attracts the young – who prefer classic fl avours like cookies and cream – but an older generation of who prefer the localised creations. Flavours such as Horlicks, chendol (a coconut, palm sugar and red bean dessert) and the aforementioned teh tarik and pulot hitam comprise about half the 20 or so flavours available at any given time.
The ice-cream joint has been joined in recent years by new entrants to the scene. One store, Udders, has gained a following, particularly for their maoshan durian ice-cream (maoshan wang, or ‘Mountain Cat King’ is a variety of durian prized for its rich bittersweet flesh), while Little Ice Cream Kafe (LICK) offers an intriguing kaya (coconut custard) flavour.
Meanwhile, traditional desserts have gotten into the act as well. Germaine cites soya bean milk chain Mr Bean, which sells traditional soyabean desserts and drinks, and a modern update on the Chinese staple with its signature – soybean milk ice cream. “It’s a fun re-invention … Singaporeans always want something new anyway so they have been very receptive to the idea,” she said.
REINVENTING CHOCOLATE
When ‘fancy’ French pastries and cream-filled sponge cakes failed to delight her, Awfully Chocolate founder Lyn Lee (right), decided to start her own cake franchise. While the mousse-filled cakes were a mainstay of many local bakeries and cafés, Lyn wanted something she could sink her teeth into. “[They] were all made with mousse, and I want cake, not cream!” she said.
Tinkering with recipes for over a year to find the perfect dessert resulted in a signature chocolate cake that has become well-loved for its soft, moist and light texture that nevertheless has a deep chocolate flavour. This perfect balance of cake and chocolate fudge frosting hit an instant sweet spot both in Singapore and beyond. Since starting 12 years ago, Awfully Chocolate now has five locations in Singapore, and outlets in Shanghai, Beijing, Dalian, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Taipei and Jakarta.
She believes the brand to reflect a uniquely Singapore and Asian palate. “Singaporeans don’t like their desserts too sweet or ‘too much’, so heavy desserts don’t seem to be that popular,” Lyn said, “This is 100% Singapore-inspired … It’s not something we tasted somewhere else and decided to bring here.”

LINGERING ON THE PALATE
Distinguishing themselves from mere food fad, the founders of these establishments share some business characteristics, particularly in focusing on quality, not quantity.
For example, Awfully Chocolate offered only three versions of its chocolate cake for over a decade, and nonetheless captured a loyal following. Only in recent years did it expand its menu to include a sultry dark chocolate ice cream and other chocolate treats.
Island Creamery too, despite being around for about seven years, has been cautious in expanding. Stanley, despite interest from Singapore and overseas, has decided not to franchise his business. “I think, as a small, local business, we have the advantage of being able to cater to local tastes,” he said.
And even as western desserts continue to grow in popularity in Singapore, Asian desserts will continue to hold their own in various forms. “We have such a strong food culture that there is space for both traditional local and new fangled western sweets to co-exist,” said Germaine. “There is an Asian foodie in all of us who will crave the black sesame and cheng teng (a clear sweet ‘soup’ made with dried longans, dates and barley) while scoffi ng ice-cream sundaes and lemon meringues. So nothing will be replacing anything and we will see more modern Asian desserts popping up.”
JEWELS ARTISAN CHOCOLATE’S BLACK PALM ISLAND SALT MACARONS
Intriguing combination of sweet and salty that’s surprisingly harmonious
Created by: Then Chui Foong
Opened in: 2010
Number of outlets: 1
Fad or classic: Hard to tell
MR BEAN’S SOYA ICE CREAM
When tau huay or soya bean milk just won’t Created by: Mr Bean soya milk chain
Opened in: 19 95
Number of outlets: 52
Fad or classic: Classic!
ISLAND CREAMERY’S TEH TERIK ICE CREAM
Like having the beverage itself, but in an extra rich, cool, creamy incarnation
Created by: Stanley Kwok
Opened in: 2003
Number of outlets: 3
Fad or classic: Classic!
AWFULLY CHOCOLATE’S CHOCOLATE CAKES
A home-grown idea of how a chocolate cake should be
Created by: Lyn Lee
Opened in: 19 9 8
Number of outlets: 6 in Singapore, 15 overseas
Fad or classic: Classic!